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兰州牛肉拉面为什么能拉长?  

2017-04-28 10:25:28|  分类: 美食天地 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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兰州牛肉拉面的鼎鼎大名大家都知道,很多人也吃过,中国每一个城市几乎都有兰州牛肉拉面馆,甚至兰州人把拉面馆开到了美国、加拿大、法国。一旦出国兰州拉面的味道可就千差万别了,不是有一句话叫:“一方水土养一方人”。即便是在国内、在兰州每一家拉面馆子做法各有千秋,吃一次便知好坏。

年味也许就是一碗牛肉拉面 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客

Lanzhou beef noodles are very well known throughout China, and you can them at one of the Lanzhou beef noodle restaurants found in virtually every city throughout the country. Such restaurants have also been opened in Western countries, including the US, Canada and France, but you never know what you’ll get at one of those; as the saying goes, “Each place nurtures its own inhabitants”. Actually, even within China these Lanzhou beef noodle restaurants vary greatly in quality and style, so the only way to be sure is to try some.

兰州拉面又称兰州清汤牛肉面,号称是中国十大面条之一,是甘肃省兰州地区的清真风味小吃。兰州人必吃的早餐之一,原因很简单,地道的本色、钱不多、能吃饱、味道好。兰州这座城市,就这样被这一碗牛肉拉面牵挂着。

Their full name being “Lanzhou plain broth beef noodles”, they are considered one of the “Ten Great Noodles of China”, and are a halal food native to Lanzhou City, Gansu Province. They’re also an indispensible breakfast food in Lanzhou, for very simple reasons: they’re straightforward, inexpensive, filling, and they taste good. Lanzhou just wouldn’t be Lanzhou without them.

其实从地图上看,面条是一条饮食文化线路的延伸。中世纪初期,阿拉伯人征服了意大利的西西里,于是阿拉伯面条就随着伊斯兰文化传入西西里,促成了意大利面的诞生。面条的路线从罗马开始进入中亚、土耳其、伊朗、新疆、延河西走廊进入中国内陆,山东、山陕、河南,山东,乃至朝鲜日本。跨过太平洋之后面条就消失了,美洲的历史中没有面条的记录。

From looking at a map we can see how the culture of eating noodles spread. In the early Middle Ages, the Arabs conquered Sicily, after which they introduced Islamic noodles, and these eventually evolved into Italian noodles. From Rome noodles then spread to Central Asia, Turkey, Iran and Xinjiang, and along the Hexi Corridor into mainland China, including Shaanxi, Shanxi, Henan and Shandong, then eventually to Korea and Japan. Crossing the Pacific no noodles could be found, until much later when they were adopted directly from Europe.

5000年以前,伊特利亚欧巴人把麦种带入中国维吾尔地区,1991年,考古学家在我国新疆一处两千年前的墓葬里.发现器皿中盛有又细又长的食物。这是迄今为止发现的最古老的面条。墓葬的主人是早在2500年前就定居在新疆的古欧洲人,至少在新疆他们可能是最早制作面条的人。我国宋代的开封城曾有“面条天堂”的美誉。至今,法国人依然把面条称之为“活着的面条”。

5000 years ago, the people of Etruria brought wheat seeds to the Uyghur region of China. In 1991 archaeologists found, in a 2000-year-old tomb in Xinjiang, a container filled with some kind of small and long-shaped food, which was later confirmed to be the most ancient noodles ever discovered. The owner of the tomb was from a European family who had relocated to Xinjiang, and they may just have been the first people in that region to make noodles. By Song dynasty China, the capital Kaifeng was known as “noodle heaven”. And today the French still call noodles “living noodles”.

 1500年之后,古老中国“丝绸之路”的西域商队在路上留下一串串脚印,同时也是一条面条之路。兰州这条路上独创了自己的饮食,兰州拉面。

1500 years after this family’s immigration to Xinjiang, the merchants from the western region of China left their many footprints along the “Silk Road”. Of course it was also a “Noodle Road”; at the major hub city of Lanzhou, the famous Lanzhou beef noodles were born.

网上所说它以汤镜者清,肉烂者香,面细者精的独特风味和一清二白三红四绿五黄,一清(汤清)、二白(萝卜白)、三红(辣椒油红)、四绿(香菜、蒜苗绿)、五黄(面条黄亮),都是吃饭人表面看到写得的。在过去,人们的生活都不富裕,原汁的肉汤自然会加入很多水,汤就自然清了。而如今一些面馆讲究质量,肉汤自然醇厚浓郁,味道十足。还有一些养生的汤和面出现,一碗上百元的虫草牛肉拉面被称之为极品拉面。

A phrase describing Lanzhou beef noodles that gained popularity on the internet is “a clear broth, tender meat, and noodles as thin as threads”. There’s also the traditional list of ingredients, clear (broth), white (radish), red (hot pepper oil), green (coriander and leek) and yellow (the noodles). But in the past, the majority of people were quite poor, thus it was only natural to water down the meat broth, so that it was “clearer” than originally. Today many restaurants serve high-quality Lanzhou beef noodles, featuring meaty broths full of flavour. Some also serve more health-conscious noodles and broth, with a bowl of “winterworm and summerherb” noodles selling for several hundred yuan, holding the record for the most expensive Lanzhou noodles.

其实每一家牛肉拉面都有它独自的味道,有些是以汤香出名、有些是以肉香、有些是以面劲道出名、有些是以小菜出名。顾客都有自己的口味,会挑选适合自己的店面吃面。学徒也是从小跟着师傅,师傅传的不仅仅是配方,更重要的是要把身上的精神感染给徒弟。这才是兰州牛肉拉面的精髓。

In fact, every Lanzhou noodle house has its unique taste and claim to fame, be it their broth, their meat, the chewiness of their noodles, or their side dishes. Likewise, each customer has his or own preferences, and will choose whichever restaurant best suits their taste. Young noodle chefs will learn alongside their masters, who not only pass on their recipes and techniques to the students, but more importantly they pass on their spirit, which is the heart of Lanzhou noodles.

1915年,回族人马保子因生计所迫,开始在家制作热锅子牛肉面,用扁担挑到兰州南关十字大菜市一带摆卖。这本是一种面条的简易做法,在凉面上浇上热汤汁即可食用。后来,马保子别出心裁地尝试现场拉面、煮面,又把煮过牛、羊肝的汤兑入牛肉面中,顿时香气袭人,吃的人们就蹲在街边,吃完了把碗就地一撂,起身走人。兰州清汤牛肉面的创立到现在正好100年。

In 1915, a Hui man named Ma Baozi, for reasons of necessity, started making a kind of noodles at home, then he would carry a few barrels of it on a bamboo carrying stick down to the Lanzhou south gate crossroads market for sale. This started as a way to simplify the noodle-making process, as he only had to take the cold noodles and pour hot soup on them, then they could be sold and eaten. Later, Ma Baozi ended up stretching his own noodles and cooking them right on the spot, and serving them in bowls of broth used to cook beef and lamb liver, giving them an extra kick of flavour. Passersby would catch the pleasant smell of the noodles, then grab a bowl and squat down to eat them, leaving the bowl on the ground as they left. That was how the Lanzhou beef noodles we see today came to be, just over one century ago.

舌尖尖拉面馆,进去一看很有文艺情怀的店,应该是从“舌尖上的中国”取意而来,兰州人称之“出头”。“味道尖的的狠”。里面的装饰很有兰州特点,同时也不失一些小清新的东西。民族特色的画、老物件和寄语墙上贴的纸条是一个亮点。

There’s a restaurant called A Taste of Beef Noodles, which most likely gets its name from the popular documentary A Taste of China, and the restaurant has been very well received by Lanzhou locals. It has very interesting décor representative of Lanzhou, and is also very cozy. On the walls are folk paintings, antiques and sticky notes with messages on them.

马子禄老店在闹市中,七拐八拐的终于找到了大众巷的马子禄牛肉面,巷子道路很窄,停车很麻烦。马子禄到底是老店,吃面的人络绎不绝。买票用的还是老算盘、老饭票,有历史感,但是新装修的店面失去的远古的味道,当下人不知道复古的感觉或许更好一些,也不能要求人家复古,不过,既然是老店还是有有一些老店感觉滋味会更好。马子禄的面讲的是“三精”一是选料精良,二是制作精细,三是味道精美。

Then there’s an old noodle house called Ma Zilu Noodles, hidden on Dazhong Alley within the busy market sector, and it takes forever to find it after all the twists and turns, so needless to say parking is a nightmare. This is the original shop of a well-known chain, so it’s extremely popular, a constant stream of people coming and going. Before paying you receive an old-fashioned ticket showing your total, which is calculated using an abacus, for a rather historical kind of feeling. Personally I find the décor here a bit more modern than it could be, and maybe it would be better if the restaurant itself were more antique-feeling, not that it’s up to me, but that made it differ a bit from my expectations. Ma Zilu Noodles choose only the best ingredients, use the most meticulous methods, and strive to attain the best possible taste.

金强拉面原是一家汉族牛肉面馆,由于味道好,越做越大,最后在黄河北岸开了一家肯德基式的快餐店。

Next is Jin Qiang Noodles, established by the Han Chinese, as opposed to Hui like most of the other restaurants. Their noodles proved popular, and the business quickly expanded, until eventually they opened a fast food-style shop on the northern bank of the Yellow River.

沙家卤面,这是一种拉面的延伸吃法。是一种面条的简易做法,和最早的马保子在凉面上浇上热汤汁即可食用方法一样,还有带卤,带炸酱,这种方法吃法兰州人称“二和(货)”。

Then I went to Sha Family Noodles in Sauce, which is an extended and simplified version of serving noodles, similar to how Ma Baozi would pour hot broth on cold noodles and serve them right away, only with sauce instead of broth. Lanzhou locals call these “combo noodles”, which is a play-on-words sounding like “dummy noodles”.

塔山半坡拉面馆在白塔山下黄河边上,旁边就是一座清真寺旁。因为对面山上的白塔和门前是一条坡路而取名。店面装饰不错,二层楼上比较安静,夏季可以坐在阳台上吃面,看黄河和山上的白塔。塔山半坡拉是兰州拉面馆里少有的几个喊堂声的拉面馆,客人买完后就有吆喝声响起,:“下碗二细,萝卜多些,辣子多些,蒜苗多些,面下大(兰州话,意为)些!

Pagoda Mountain Slope Noodle House is located at the foot of White Pagoda Mountain, on the bank of the Yellow River, right next to a mosque. Leading from its entrance is a path leading to the white pagoda on the mountain. The restaurant’s design is quite nice, and the second floor is quiet, so in the summer you can eat your noodles on the balcony as you look out over the Yellow River and the mountain with its white pagoda. This restaurant is one of the few noodle houses in Lanzhou where the staff call the orders out; you can hear them shouting things like “Put down a bowl of thin ones, lots of radish, lots of leek, extra spicy!” and “Make the bowl with ‘big’ noodles!” (which in Lanzhou dialect means with ‘lots of’ noodles).

店里的马云师傅今年46岁,父母亲过去在企业食堂做拉面,改革开放之后就自己开始在街上摆小摊卖拉面。他自己曾经有一家牛肉面馆,经营了26年。一年半之前堂弟开了巷子这家塔山半坡拉面馆,他就停下自己的拉面馆来帮堂弟。他主要负责煮肉、切肉,这些都是关键的一环,汤好不好、肉香不香全靠他来掌握。煮三鲜汤的时候最为重要。三鲜汤中要放进羊肝、全鸡和牛肉。煮的时候要在羊肝发硬熟到正好的时候捞出来,否则羊肝和鸡味就要进入牛肉中,就破坏了汤的鲜味了。捞出羊肝和全鸡后再把牛肉煮透,这样煮出来汤和肉都很鲜美。每天煮下的汤都要留下一盆左右的汤,第二天在把这盆汤放进去,这叫老汤,马师傅的这盆汤已经有二十多年了,老汤就像中药的药引子一样,能把味道给吊出来。马师傅的汤煮的时候就放一些盐进去,让盐的味道也进入到肉质中。这和以往的煮肉方法不同,提前放盐会使肉紧缩,不好煮熟。俗话说:“热水煮肉肉香,冷水煮肉汤香”。具体怎么煮这要全靠经验。肯定和老汤的作用分不开。

At the restaurant I talked to a noodle chef named Ma Yun, who’s 46; his parents used to make noodles at a cafeteria, until after the Reform and Opening-Up, when they started selling their own noodles on the street. Ma Yun used to have his own beef noodle house, which he ran for 26 years. Then a year and a half ago his cousin opened the Pagoda Mountain Slope Noodle House, so he closed his own shop and came here to help out. He mostly takes care of cooking the noodles and cutting the meat, which are both very important, because if the broth isn’t right or the meat isn’t tasty then it’s his responsibility. The importance of his job is particularly significant when making “three meat broth”, which namely includes lamb liver, a whole chicken, and beef. When boiling the three types of meat you have to take the liver out right as it’s ready and turns solid, otherwise the flavours of the liver and chicken will steep into the beef, ruining the entire batch. After taking out the liver and chicken, then you keep cooking the beef, until eventually you have both broth and beef that are absolutely delectable. At the end of the day they’ll save a pot of the broth, which they’ll add to the batch the following day; this is called the “old broth”. Mr. Ma’s old broth is over 20 years old now. It’s kind of like a “primer” in Chinese medicine, it helps bring out the flavour of the soup. When boiling the soup Mr. Ma will add some salt, which adds to the flavour of the meat. But different from the usual method of adding salt, he doesn’t put it in until after the meat is cooked, as adding it while it’s cooking will cause the meat to contract, making it tough. There’s also a saying, “Using hot broth to cook meat will make the meat taste good, using cold broth to cook meat will make the broth taste good.” For all the specific details, he has only his experience to rely on, but the old broth is definitely a key element.

塔山半坡店里的一口大铜锅就300斤重,内径1.1米,一次能煮400斤的牛肉。

At the Pagoda Mountain Slope Restaurant there’s a huge copper pot that has an inner diameter of 1.1 m, weighs over 300 pounds, and can cook over 400 pounds of beef at a time.

马师傅已经带过三个徒弟,一般一个徒弟需要七八年的学习就可以出师了,现在马师傅带的这个小徒弟十八岁,名字叫马小帅,人挺帅的。

Mr. Ma has already taught three disciples. Typically a disciple will have to learn for seven or eight years before they can work on their own. His current one is 18, his name’s “Handsome” Ma, and he is quite handsome.

切肉也很有讲究,都由他来切。那个部位的肉怎么切?生肉和熟肉大不一样。味道好、品相还要好看、肥瘦要有搭配。肉的纹理要横断而不能竖断,竖断品相不好看,吃起来要塞牙。

How the meat is cut is also very important, so Mr. Ma cuts all the meat himself. Each section of meat must be cut differently, as do raw and cooked meat. The meat must be tasty, and look good, with a balance between lean meat and fat. It must also be cut against the grain, otherwise it won’t look good, and it will get stuck in the customers’ teeth.

一袋面粉等标准是50斤,可以做出180碗拉面。他们店里每天能卖出1800碗拉面,400600斤的牛肉。

A standard bag of flour is 50 pounds, which can make 180 bowls of noodles. Every day their shop sells 1800 bowls of noodles, including 400 to 600 pounds of beef.

伊尔伊拉面馆开在黄河北岸的安宁区,是一家刚刚开业的新店。也是兰州拉面培训学校的所在地。总经理田卫海在全国有十五家拉面馆,是兰州市拉面产业联合会的副会长,也是借势让兰州拉面参与一带一路饮食产业布局的第一家。伊尔伊的分店已经开到了吉尔吉斯斯坦、马来西亚、伊朗等国。

The next noodle house I visited was Yi’eryi Noodles, a brand-new restaurant in the Anning District on the north bank of the river. This is also the location of the Lanzhou Noodle School. The restaurant’s manager Tian Weihai has 15 locations throughout China; he’s the Vice-Director of the Lanzhou City Noodle Industry Federation, and his restaurant is the first to take part in the industry configuration of the “one strip, one road” region. Yi’eryi  restaurants have also been opened in other countries like Kyrgyzstan, Malaysia and Iran.

跟着田总我们来到他这家新开的拉面馆。拉面师傅苏国强准备的是五种彩色拉面,这让我们感到很是新奇。

Mr. Tian took us to this newly opened restaurant. The noodle chef, named Su Guoqiang, was making multicoloured noodles, which was something we had never seen before.

苏师傅说这些彩色拉面的是他的孩子孩子在家玩橡皮泥的时候受到的启发。孩子把橡皮泥搓成一个个细条,然后这么合到一起,组成了几个色彩。这让他突然有了灵感,于是就试着做了下。

Mr. Su says that these colourful noodles were an idea that he got from his children while they were playing with plasticine. They had rolled up several colours of plasticine, then when they put them together it was like a rainbow. This inspired Mr. Su to try it with real noodles.

刚开始选择食材的时候也遇到过困难,一开始用的是红薯,因为觉得红薯蒸熟后面软,好往里往里面配料。但是红薯面含糖高、蒸熟后发现里面有筋,就试着把蒸熟的红薯扑在案板,一点一点的慢慢往下刮,这样才能把筋挑干净,然后要把红薯和面擦到一起,然后加鸡蛋再拧揉,但是这个的面很松散,拉不成形。

At first he had trouble finding the right ingredients to use; he started with sweet potato flour, because noodles made from it would be soft, making it easier to add other ingredients. But sweet potato flour also has a high sugar content, and after cooking the noodles he also found there were lumps in them, so then he tried spreading the cooked sweet potatoes on a table, and took the lumps out one by one, then mixed the sweet potato and flour together, followed by eggs. However, the noodles came out too soft, and couldn’t be formed into proper shapes.

agment--> ?? noodles!” (which in Lanzhou dialect means with ‘lots of’ noodles).

后来就是试着把绿色的菠菜、橙色的胡萝卜、浅橙色的番茄、浅绿色的紫甘蓝、黄色的南瓜进行榨汁和面,时间长了,就更有灵感。抻起面来呯嘭几次之后,五种颜色可以换不同位置。每种颜色的都可以抻出粗细不同又分九种:毛细、细、二细、三细、韭叶、薄宽、大宽、荞麦棱子和二柱子。苏师傅把他做的这种面叫五彩面,取名叫云彩飞扬

Next he tried pressing the juices out of green spinach, orange carrots, red tomatoes, purple cabbage and yellow gourds, and mixing them with the flour; soon enough, his inspiration grew. After stretching and pounding a few batches, he could make noodles of all five colours, and in nine different thicknesses, from “hair thin” to “pillar thick”. Mr. Su dubbed these “flying cloud noodles”.

这种五彩面的难度在于需要更清的汤来做调味,不至于压倒了面的颜色,才能让人感到色、香、味俱佳。清醺肥菏,自成馨逸,汤沈若金,一清到底吸引着食客眼光和胃口。

The challenge with these noodles is that a clearer broth has to be used, so as not to overpower the colours of the noodles, achieving a balance of colour, taste and aroma. The final product is a tasty bowl of noodles with a light broth that have attracted the eyes and taste buds of many, many customers.

兰州人都知道,兰州拉面的制作,需要三遍水,三遍灰,九九八十一遍揉。这里提到的灰,就是“蓬灰”。拉面为何要加蓬灰,拉面师傅说:“不加蓬灰,各种粗细和形状的面条拉不出来,煮面会浑汤,口感也不筋道。”

Virtually any Lanzhou local can tell you that to make Lanzhou beef noodles you have to “cook them three times, steep them in lye-water three times, and knead them 9981 times”. The purpose of the lye-water, according to Mr. Su, is to keep the noodles from breaking apart in the water, and retaining their chewiness.

来拉面馆当学徒首先要学会拿石头来熬灰水。

When a student starts learning how to make noodles, the first thing he learns his how to boil stones to make lye-water.

”2012年的时候媒体曝兰州拉面使用蓬灰做调味剂,说蓬灰有致癌作用,一时间众说纷纭。

In 2012 the media claimed that the lye-water made from “penghui” (bitter fleabane) used in making Lanzhou noodles was to alter the flavour, and that it could cause cancer.

苏师傅说蓬灰是一种草,就是生长西北部干旱区的一种蓬草(也叫蓬蓬草、臭蓬蒿、碱蓬),是一种含碱较高的草本植物。每到十月份的时候,兰州周边的一些村落里的村民开始采集这种草烧制蓬灰。秋季采是因为这时候草还没有干枯,完全干枯的不行,草里面没有水分。烧制的时候在地上挖一个坑,倒草进去,下面的大,上面的小,然后点着烧,烧的过程中,草里面的脂水,会往下流,把这个草烧成灰,再把土沙压下去,整个埋住。三个星期后,把土取掉,里面的灰就变成结晶成块了。把结晶的石块砸成黄豆大的小颗粒状,然后拿去煮水。

Mr. Su says in response that penghui is a kind of plant which grows in the arid northwestern region of China, and is also known as pengpengcao, choupenghao and jianpeng. It has a rather high alkaline content. Every October, residents from the villages surrounding Lanzhou will go and collect this herb, to be made into penghui. The reason why they pick it in the autumn is to that it hasn’t completely dried out yet, which won’t do, as it has to have some water in it. To cook it they dig a hole in the ground and throw the herbs in, with the small ones on the bottom and large ones on the top. Then they cook the herbs, so that the juice from inside steeps out, and when the herbs have burned to ashes, they bury them in the soil. Three weeks later they reopen the hole, at which point the ashes will have crystallized. They break the crystals into pea-sized pieces, then boil them in water.

其实蓬草燃烧后产生的灰烬,主要成分是碳酸盐,其次是氯化钾、含硫化合物、磷酸盐等。相比现在的化学制剂应该是天然的成分,只是现在用的很少了。

After the herbs have turned to ash, their main component is carbonate, followed by potassium chloride, sulfur compounds, and phosphates. Compared to most chemical agents used today these components are all quite natural, but nowadays this method isn’t used that much anymore.

蓬灰第一次煮出来的水,碱的浓度太高,第二次正合适,我们要煮三次,第三天煮出来这水比较淡一些,把三天熬出来的水融和一起效果正好。兰州最传统就是这样做。用这种水和到面里,改善面团组织结构,提高面团的筋度和弹性,能吃到面的香味。

The first pot of water in which the penghui is boiled will have an alkaline content which is too high, the second pot is just right, while the third will be quite mild. Usually these three are mixed together for the perfect ratio. This is the most traditional method used in Lanzhou. By mixing this water with the flour, it will improve the consistency of the dough, as well as its level of gluten and thus elasticity, bringing out the flavor.

苏师傅说。拉面其实是很费力气的,就像你的左手握着你的右手,学的时候,性子急的不行、慢的也不行。急了和面韧性不够,面容易拉断。慢性子也不行,因为拉面是快餐,客人在那里等着,时间长了客人就急了。

Mr. Su says that stretching the noodles takes a lot of strength, similar to hooking your hands together and pulling them in opposite direction. When learning it you have to have the right amount of patience; if you’re in too much of a hurry the noodles won’t be stretchy enough and may break, and if you take your time the customer will grow impatient, and since noodles are still considered a type of “fast food”, that just won’t do.

揉面的时候,要以柔克刚。面本来就是软的,案板是硬的,手揉的瞬间,手和面在说话。靠身体俯冲靠手掌这个力来揉面。手掌揉面,手侧开面,这个揉面的每一个动作和太极很形似。面馆师傅是我的叔叔,他是打太极拳的,跟我说了些太极拳为什么柔和有力的道理,之后我揉面的方法就很好,有力度。拉面在于调面,调面在于和面,是相互牵制的。

When kneading the dough, it’s important to use strength, while still being gentle. The dough is soft, while the kneading board is hard. When kneading the dough, your hands and the dough communicate with each other. The strength comes from the palms of your hand, with the weight of your body pushing down. The palms knead the dough, and the sides of the hands open the dough, every movement bearing a remarkable resemblance to taiji. The head noodle chef is my uncle, he has practiced taiji for a long time, and told me some of the principles in taiji involving the balance of strength and gentleness. Afterwards my dough kneading skills suddenly improved, I had much more strength. Stretching the noodles is all about conditioning the dough, and conditioning is all about kneading, everything is directly related.

我教的学生中遇到过一个急脾气的,我就让他一个劲的揉,揉累了,疲乏了,自己慢慢会把他这个急性子压下去。因为外界的心情不能压制他自己内在的心情,只有他自己明白才能调整。

I have one student who is particularly short on patience, so I just had him knead for a long time, then eventually he got tired, and he eventually became much less impetuous. The outside world can’t be allowed affect his inner feelings; he has to understand that before he can adjust his attitude.

有一次去云南玩,遇到一人盲人,他问我哪的人,我说我是兰州的,他随口就说的。“你会做兰州拉面吗”,“我说会做,你想吃吗,晚上我请你。但是他却说你有时间可以教我吗。我心里想一惊,你一个瞎子,我教你你能学会吗?

One time I was on a trip in Yunnan and I met a blind man. He asked me where I was from, and I said Lanzhou. He then casually asked me, “Can you make Lanzhou noodles” I said, “Yes, if you want some I’ll make you some tonight.” But then he asked if I had time to teach him how to make them. This took me aback; he was blind, if I taught him would he be able to learn?

我先教他练了一个星期手劲,相当于让他不用眼睛用手去感受。

I first had him practice hand strength for a week, so that he could get a feel of the dough without using his eyes.

我让他手放面上,他说:“什么意思”我说:“你感受下这放的是水,这放的灰,这放的是油”,他学半个月就会了,很有灵性。

I had him put his hand on the dough, and he asked what I would have him do. I had him feel different types of dough: “This one is made with water, this one with lye-water, this one with oil.” After two weeks he could do it himself, he was very talented.

我家里放着一对钢球,一副球是一公斤,每天玩,就是要练手的灵活度,拉面就是要手指灵活,手指不灵活怎么搓、拉面、抻面。

At home I have a set of iron balls, the two combined are 1 kg in weight. I practice with them every day, to keep my hands nimble, which is very important for making noodles. If my hands aren’t nimble, how am I supposed to knead the dough and stretch the noodles?

 我也遇到过一个性子慢的,家是酒泉的,我永远都记得他的名字,他叫徐开心,你生气说他什么,他都笑。他的性子慢到什么程度,客人满堂,跟他没关系,继续揉面,拉快拉慢跟他没关系。我不急客人急了。

I’ve also met someone who had too much patience; he was from Jiuquan, and I’ll always remember his name: “Happy” Xu. No matter what you said to him in anger, he’d always be smiling. Just how slow was he? When the restaurant was full, it didn’t make a difference to him, he’d just keep on kneading, fast or slow, it was all the same to him. The customers would lose patience way before he did.

 学拉面不在年龄,60多的老头子来了,我都教过。关键在于技巧,和手的灵活度。

There’s no age limit for learning how to make noodles; I’ve taught people in their sixties. The key elements are technique and hand dexterity. 

苏师傅说:“面是有灵性的,从麦子到加工成面粉,到给水变团等,包括做出来的馒头之类,它都是有灵性的,在加上面它是天赐之物,做的时候一定要善待它。”

Mr. Su says, “Dough is smart; from wheat until becoming flour, then when water is added it becomes dough, and all things made from it, noodles, buns, and so on, are all smart. Dough is a gift from the heavens, so when making it we have to treat it well.”

没有美食的城市如同没有同房的夫妻,缺少了一种的滋味。这就是一座城和一碗面的关系。

A city without cuisine is like a married couple without a house to live in, there’s just something missing. This city could never be without its noodles.

 年味也许就是一碗牛肉拉面 - 马宏杰 - 马宏杰的博客

马云师傅和他的小徒弟每天早晨四点开始煮肉,门里门外的世界就隔着一层玻璃

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  评论这张
 
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